Pernem at the northern tip of Goa has the imperious Tiracol fort on the northern bank of the Arondem River. Tiracol is just a short 4 km drive into Tiracol from Redi, the last town on the Maharashtra Konkan. Maharashtra ends with a sea fort, a sacred temple and a glorious, secluded beach. I saw the Portuguese heritage welcoming here. From these living chapters of history, Tiracol unveils significant aspects of India’s past, including the turning points like the 15th of August in 1954 when Goan revolutionaries came to this fort to raise the Indian flag. As we entered the religion at fort Tiracol, which contains a 100 yr old Chapel of St Anthony and a 400 yr old Church of the Holy Trinity.
I could see the beach from the Tiracol fort which lies on the opposite bank of the Arondem, or Tiracol Estuary. Many people were swimming here upon crossing the river on ferry as it is the 3 mile long Querim beach. The beach is remote and beautiful, with just a handful of cold drinks stalls near the ferry point. Dozens of birds inhabit the mangroves along the estuary.
About 12 km further down from Querim are the tree lined Kalacha and Arambol beaches. Arambol’s white beach is lined with palm trees all over and is a great beach to hang out. It boasts a fresh water lagoon right on the shore, just north of Kalacha. We had a bathe here to get rid of the sting of sea salt water. The hippies have discovered this fishing settlement and turned up in large numbers to bask by the lagoon in their bikinis and swim suites. We also took a stroll through the Arambol village, a 10 minutes walk up from the beach, following the road from Arambol Pizzeria that’s lined with beer barrs, fish shacks and restaurants.
And just south of Arambol beach are the unspoilt sands of Mandrem, lined with canoes. The tiny twin beaches of Asvem and Junas at Mandrem, shaded by hills from a corridor along which people were trekking to Arambol along the sand and the cliffs.
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