We drive up through great wrought iron gates down a tree lined gravel path and stop in front of a vast European edifice, the Raj Niwas Palace in Dholpur, Rajasthan. Built by the ruler of Dholpur, the palace is owned by Dushyant Singh, son of Vasundhara Raje who married into a royal family and is now the minister of Rajasthan. Raj Niwas Palace is a weekend getaway from Delhi. Dholpur is 40 Km drive from Agra.
The dusty five hour drive from Delhi has got me obsessing about a shower. I fail to pay attention to the Maharaja Suite where I am to spend the night, as I am ushered into its bathroom. The bathroom walls are clad from floor to ceiling with a variety of startling blue, fantastically patterned ceramic tiles. I feel compelled to postpone my shower and investigate this wonderful place. As I wander I realize from room to room is what is marvelous about Raj Niwas Palace. Art Nouveau style light fightings elaborate tower bolts, gorgeous heaters, Swiss made Piccolo Bells, the grandfather clock and the giant pedestal fans are all carefully preserved. Someone here has loved this place and its things a lot. But its incredible that no one not even the owner or the manager seems to know the year it was constructed but apparently it was built to welcome HRH Albert Edward, the Prince of Wales when he visited in 1876
I am now prepared to be overwhelmed by the room. The Maharaja Suite is not only large enough to cause exhaustion simply walking from bed to wardrobe, but every square inch is covered with ceramic tiles with a fish and water motif, glazed in cobalt’s and ochre’s. The floor is a mosaic of colored oxide tiles, the plasterwork on the ceiling is gilded. Other rooms too are richly decorated with tiles.
I step out to catch my breath. The sprawling grounds remind me of the Victoria Memorial cast iron lamps and a small pool embellishes the greens. After a comforting North Indian lunch I am escorted around Dholpur town by a member of the palace staff. Dholpur is a little heritage town apart from an ancient complex of temples, a step well and the ruins of shergah, many little gems from the past are to be found tucked away. I have just enjoyed the sparkling jewel in the crown
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